Saturday, July 23, 2005
Taking care of the flea problem
EKKKKK!!!! Those pesky little jumping insects bothering you and your cat or dog! Now you got a flea problem!
Flea , that pesky parasite is the common name for any of the small wingless insects of the order Siphonaptera. Fleas are external parasites, living off the blood of mammals and birds.
Adult fleas are not only a nuisance to humans and their pets, but can cause medical problems including flea allergy dermatitis (FAD), tapeworms, secondary skin irritations and, in extreme cases, anemia. Although bites are rarely felt, it is the resulting irritation caused by the flea salivary secretions that varies among individuals. Some may witness a severe reaction (general rash or inflammation) resulting in secondary infections caused by scratching the irritated skin area.
Adult fleas are about 1/16 to 1/8-inch long, dark reddish-brown, wingless, hard-bodied (difficult to crush between fingers), have three pairs of legs (hind legs enlarged enabling jumping) and are flattened vertically or side to side (bluegill or sunfish-like) allowing easy movement between the hair, fur or feathers of the host. Fleas are excellent jumpers, leaping vertically up to seven inches and horizontally thirteen inches. (An equivalent hop for a human would be 250 feet vertically and 450 feet horizontally.) They have piercing-sucking mouthparts and spines on the body projecting backward. Also, there is a row of spines on the face known as a genal comb. Spine I (first outer spine) is shorter than Spine II (next inner spine) in dog fleas. Both spines are about the same length in the cat flea. The rabbit flea has a vertical genal comb with blunt spines. The genal comb is absent in both rat fleas. Eggs are smooth, oval and white. Larvae are 1/4-inch long, slender, straw-colored, brown headed, wormlike, bristly-haired creatures (13 body segments), that are legless, have chewing mouthparts, are active, and avoid light. Pupae are enclosed in silken cocoons covered with particles of debris.
These are the essential steps for a successful flea control program:
I. Remove fleas from the outdoor environment.
Fleas tend to like areas that are moist, warm, shady, and where there is organic debris. They will also tend to be where pets spend more of their outdoor time so be sure to concentrate on areas such as patios, under porches, dog houses, etc. Rake away any organic debris such as leaves, straw, grass clippings, etc., to disturb flea habitat and allow any flea and tick product you use outdoors to penetrate.
II.Remove fleas from pets.
There are a number of flea control products for use on pets, including once-a-month topical products, sprays, dips, shampoos, collars, and oral products. With any product applied directly to the pet, please remember that you may see some live fleas on your pet for a short time after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. In order for the fleas to die, they must come into contact with the insecticide, and absorb it.
Keep in mind that until all of the fleas in your home have died, you will probably still see some fleas, even on a treated pet, since some immature forms may continue to develop. This is especially true if you had a big flea problem to start with. Persistence is the key here. It is essential to keep following an effective flea control program for a long enough time to get rid of all of the fleas, in all life stages. This may take several months to a year, depending on your particular situation.
The “Pill” (Program™)-This product prevents flea eggs from hatching when administered orally to pets once a month at mealtime. Dogs are fed Program in tablet form, whereas cats are fed a liquid suspension mixed with their food. Different tablet sizes and suspension doses are prescribed according to the weight of the animal. When an adult female flea bites a Program-treated dog or cat, the flea ingests the active ingredient (lufenuron) which then passes into her eggs and prevents them from hatching. Program is dispensed only through veterinarians. A companion product, Sentinel™, contains both the flea control ingredient and heartworm medication all in one dosage.
“Egg-Stopper” Collars- Unlike conventional flea collars, these contain an insect growth regulating ingredient (methoprene or pyriproxyfen) which prevents egg hatch for several months. Thus, the overall effect is much like Program. Pet owners should carefully read the “active ingredients” panel on the package of the collar to verify that methoprene or pyriproxyfen are present. One such brand, the Ovitrol/Ovitrol Plus™ Flea Egg Collar is available through veterinarians. -Retail versions include the Fleatrol™ Flea Egg Collar and Relieve™ Collar, sold in pet stores and discount chains. Once installed, the egg-inhibiting substance releases from the collar and rapidly distributes over the fur of the entire animal, killing flea eggs on contact. This breaks the life cycle and infestations never become established. The methoprene and pyriproxyfen-impregnated collars are virtually 100% effective at preventing new flea eggs from hatching for at least 6 months (essentially season-long) on both dogs and cats.
Spot-Ons- Another effective, convenient treatment method involves applying a few droplets of material between the shoulder blades of the animal. Two veterinarian-supplied products, Advantage™ and Frontline™, control adult fleas on pets for at least 1 month. On dogs, Frontline Top Spot lasts up to 3 months. Another ‘spot-on’ product, available through retail stores, is Biospot™, which contains the egg-inhibiting ingredient pyriproxyfen.
The best way to use any of the above-mentioned products is to initiate treatment before flea season begins, typically in the spring. By doing so you will greatly reduce the chances of developing a serious flea problem later in the summer. Any stray fleas the pet happens to pick up around the home or at the kennel will be unable to lay viable eggs. Breaking the cycle of flea development on the pet also reduces the need to apply insecticides throughout the living areas of the home. (Each of these on-animal products is of negligible hazard to people and pets, and there is seldom any adverse reaction with other petmedications.) Methoprene or pyriproxyfen-based products may need to be supplemented, periodically, with a topical spray or dip to knock down any adult fleas irritating the pet, especially if the animal is flea allergic. This should not be necessary with Advantage and Frontline. In any case, the occasional adult flea spotted on the pet will be unable to reproduce and soon will die off.
III. Control Measures
Flea control is best achieved with a simultaneous, coordinated effort involving strict sanitation, pet treatment and premise treatment (both indoors & outdoors).
Inspection - Before treatment, discuss the pet's habits with family members to determine where resting and sleeping occurs most frequently. Flea activity "hot spots" can be detected by placing white socks over shoes and walking through the residence into suspected areas. Research has demonstrated that these areas will contain the highest amount of eggs, larvae and pupae even after vacuuming. Hot spots for homes with dogs are usually areas where the pet goes in and out of the house, eats, sleeps and spends time with the family at the base of furniture. For cats, check the tops of refrigerators, cabinets, book cases and higher locations.
One can monitor flea populations by placing a shallow pan of water with a little dish detergent (acts as a wetting agent which breaks water surface tension) on the floor. Position a gooseneck lamp with the light on about five to six inches above the liquid surface. Adult fleas will leap toward the light at night, fall into the detergent solution and drown. The Happy Jack and pulvex (Zema) flea trap is a commercial apparatus based on the same principle. Also, an ultralight flea trap with a green light attracts fleas into a sticky tray.
Sanitation - Before vacuuming, collect all items (toys, shoes, clothes, etc.) off the floor, under beds, furniture, in closets, etc., to ensure best access for treatment. Also cover fish tanks, remove bird cages, pet food and water dishes and wash or dry clean any pet bedding. Vacuuming carpet with a beater-bar type vacuum where the pet rests and sleeps will help control flea larvae by removing eggs and dried blood feces (larval food) plus opening up the carpet's nap for more effective insecticide treatment. Vacuuming must be performed on a regular basis every other day to be effective. Flea larvae do not move far from the site of hatching when there is adequate food (dried blood feces from adults). Research indicates larvae spend 83 percent of the time deep in the carpet at the base of fibers frequently becoming entwined within the carpet. At pupation, the larva move up the carpet fiber spinning a camouflaging cocoon around itself. Vacuum especially where lint and pet hairs accumulate along baseboards, around carpet edges, on ventilators, around heat registers, in floor cracks, and under and in furniture where the pet sleeps.
After vacuuming, place the vacuum bag in a large plastic garbage bag and discard in an outdoor trash container. If the cleaner uses a liquid water medium in a plastic pan (rather than a dust bag) discard dirty water far away from the house.
Prevention - Trim lawns and weeds to create a drier, less-ideal environment for flea larvae. Avoid piles of sand and gravel around the home for long periods of time. Fence yards to prevent dogs from roaming freely in heavily infested areas or contacting other infested animals. Discourage nesting or roosting of rodents and birds on or near the premises. Screen or seal vents, chimneys, crevices, etc. where rats, mice, squirrels, raccoons, chipmunks, etc. may use to enter crawlspaces and buildings. Wash or destroy pet bedding, regularly groom pets and vacuum frequently to remove up to 95 percent of the flea eggs, some larvae and adults. Only about 20 percent of the larvae might be removed when vacuuming since they wrap themselves around the bottom strands of carpeting.
So now you and you pet can enjoy a scratch-free life style.
Have a nice day.
Flea , that pesky parasite is the common name for any of the small wingless insects of the order Siphonaptera. Fleas are external parasites, living off the blood of mammals and birds.
Adult fleas are not only a nuisance to humans and their pets, but can cause medical problems including flea allergy dermatitis (FAD), tapeworms, secondary skin irritations and, in extreme cases, anemia. Although bites are rarely felt, it is the resulting irritation caused by the flea salivary secretions that varies among individuals. Some may witness a severe reaction (general rash or inflammation) resulting in secondary infections caused by scratching the irritated skin area.
Adult fleas are about 1/16 to 1/8-inch long, dark reddish-brown, wingless, hard-bodied (difficult to crush between fingers), have three pairs of legs (hind legs enlarged enabling jumping) and are flattened vertically or side to side (bluegill or sunfish-like) allowing easy movement between the hair, fur or feathers of the host. Fleas are excellent jumpers, leaping vertically up to seven inches and horizontally thirteen inches. (An equivalent hop for a human would be 250 feet vertically and 450 feet horizontally.) They have piercing-sucking mouthparts and spines on the body projecting backward. Also, there is a row of spines on the face known as a genal comb. Spine I (first outer spine) is shorter than Spine II (next inner spine) in dog fleas. Both spines are about the same length in the cat flea. The rabbit flea has a vertical genal comb with blunt spines. The genal comb is absent in both rat fleas. Eggs are smooth, oval and white. Larvae are 1/4-inch long, slender, straw-colored, brown headed, wormlike, bristly-haired creatures (13 body segments), that are legless, have chewing mouthparts, are active, and avoid light. Pupae are enclosed in silken cocoons covered with particles of debris.
These are the essential steps for a successful flea control program:
I. Remove fleas from the outdoor environment.
Fleas tend to like areas that are moist, warm, shady, and where there is organic debris. They will also tend to be where pets spend more of their outdoor time so be sure to concentrate on areas such as patios, under porches, dog houses, etc. Rake away any organic debris such as leaves, straw, grass clippings, etc., to disturb flea habitat and allow any flea and tick product you use outdoors to penetrate.
II.Remove fleas from pets.
There are a number of flea control products for use on pets, including once-a-month topical products, sprays, dips, shampoos, collars, and oral products. With any product applied directly to the pet, please remember that you may see some live fleas on your pet for a short time after spraying, shampooing, dipping, etc. In order for the fleas to die, they must come into contact with the insecticide, and absorb it.
Keep in mind that until all of the fleas in your home have died, you will probably still see some fleas, even on a treated pet, since some immature forms may continue to develop. This is especially true if you had a big flea problem to start with. Persistence is the key here. It is essential to keep following an effective flea control program for a long enough time to get rid of all of the fleas, in all life stages. This may take several months to a year, depending on your particular situation.
The “Pill” (Program™)-This product prevents flea eggs from hatching when administered orally to pets once a month at mealtime. Dogs are fed Program in tablet form, whereas cats are fed a liquid suspension mixed with their food. Different tablet sizes and suspension doses are prescribed according to the weight of the animal. When an adult female flea bites a Program-treated dog or cat, the flea ingests the active ingredient (lufenuron) which then passes into her eggs and prevents them from hatching. Program is dispensed only through veterinarians. A companion product, Sentinel™, contains both the flea control ingredient and heartworm medication all in one dosage.
“Egg-Stopper” Collars- Unlike conventional flea collars, these contain an insect growth regulating ingredient (methoprene or pyriproxyfen) which prevents egg hatch for several months. Thus, the overall effect is much like Program. Pet owners should carefully read the “active ingredients” panel on the package of the collar to verify that methoprene or pyriproxyfen are present. One such brand, the Ovitrol/Ovitrol Plus™ Flea Egg Collar is available through veterinarians. -Retail versions include the Fleatrol™ Flea Egg Collar and Relieve™ Collar, sold in pet stores and discount chains. Once installed, the egg-inhibiting substance releases from the collar and rapidly distributes over the fur of the entire animal, killing flea eggs on contact. This breaks the life cycle and infestations never become established. The methoprene and pyriproxyfen-impregnated collars are virtually 100% effective at preventing new flea eggs from hatching for at least 6 months (essentially season-long) on both dogs and cats.
Spot-Ons- Another effective, convenient treatment method involves applying a few droplets of material between the shoulder blades of the animal. Two veterinarian-supplied products, Advantage™ and Frontline™, control adult fleas on pets for at least 1 month. On dogs, Frontline Top Spot lasts up to 3 months. Another ‘spot-on’ product, available through retail stores, is Biospot™, which contains the egg-inhibiting ingredient pyriproxyfen.
The best way to use any of the above-mentioned products is to initiate treatment before flea season begins, typically in the spring. By doing so you will greatly reduce the chances of developing a serious flea problem later in the summer. Any stray fleas the pet happens to pick up around the home or at the kennel will be unable to lay viable eggs. Breaking the cycle of flea development on the pet also reduces the need to apply insecticides throughout the living areas of the home. (Each of these on-animal products is of negligible hazard to people and pets, and there is seldom any adverse reaction with other petmedications.) Methoprene or pyriproxyfen-based products may need to be supplemented, periodically, with a topical spray or dip to knock down any adult fleas irritating the pet, especially if the animal is flea allergic. This should not be necessary with Advantage and Frontline. In any case, the occasional adult flea spotted on the pet will be unable to reproduce and soon will die off.
III. Control Measures
Flea control is best achieved with a simultaneous, coordinated effort involving strict sanitation, pet treatment and premise treatment (both indoors & outdoors).
Inspection - Before treatment, discuss the pet's habits with family members to determine where resting and sleeping occurs most frequently. Flea activity "hot spots" can be detected by placing white socks over shoes and walking through the residence into suspected areas. Research has demonstrated that these areas will contain the highest amount of eggs, larvae and pupae even after vacuuming. Hot spots for homes with dogs are usually areas where the pet goes in and out of the house, eats, sleeps and spends time with the family at the base of furniture. For cats, check the tops of refrigerators, cabinets, book cases and higher locations.
One can monitor flea populations by placing a shallow pan of water with a little dish detergent (acts as a wetting agent which breaks water surface tension) on the floor. Position a gooseneck lamp with the light on about five to six inches above the liquid surface. Adult fleas will leap toward the light at night, fall into the detergent solution and drown. The Happy Jack and pulvex (Zema) flea trap is a commercial apparatus based on the same principle. Also, an ultralight flea trap with a green light attracts fleas into a sticky tray.
Sanitation - Before vacuuming, collect all items (toys, shoes, clothes, etc.) off the floor, under beds, furniture, in closets, etc., to ensure best access for treatment. Also cover fish tanks, remove bird cages, pet food and water dishes and wash or dry clean any pet bedding. Vacuuming carpet with a beater-bar type vacuum where the pet rests and sleeps will help control flea larvae by removing eggs and dried blood feces (larval food) plus opening up the carpet's nap for more effective insecticide treatment. Vacuuming must be performed on a regular basis every other day to be effective. Flea larvae do not move far from the site of hatching when there is adequate food (dried blood feces from adults). Research indicates larvae spend 83 percent of the time deep in the carpet at the base of fibers frequently becoming entwined within the carpet. At pupation, the larva move up the carpet fiber spinning a camouflaging cocoon around itself. Vacuum especially where lint and pet hairs accumulate along baseboards, around carpet edges, on ventilators, around heat registers, in floor cracks, and under and in furniture where the pet sleeps.
After vacuuming, place the vacuum bag in a large plastic garbage bag and discard in an outdoor trash container. If the cleaner uses a liquid water medium in a plastic pan (rather than a dust bag) discard dirty water far away from the house.
Prevention - Trim lawns and weeds to create a drier, less-ideal environment for flea larvae. Avoid piles of sand and gravel around the home for long periods of time. Fence yards to prevent dogs from roaming freely in heavily infested areas or contacting other infested animals. Discourage nesting or roosting of rodents and birds on or near the premises. Screen or seal vents, chimneys, crevices, etc. where rats, mice, squirrels, raccoons, chipmunks, etc. may use to enter crawlspaces and buildings. Wash or destroy pet bedding, regularly groom pets and vacuum frequently to remove up to 95 percent of the flea eggs, some larvae and adults. Only about 20 percent of the larvae might be removed when vacuuming since they wrap themselves around the bottom strands of carpeting.
So now you and you pet can enjoy a scratch-free life style.
Have a nice day.
